How to Pick a Good Houseplant

If you've ever caught me inspecting a plant in a video or reel in our greenhouse, you already know my habit. I almost never hold a plant without popping it out of the pot to look at the roots. Looking at the roots is the most important thing you can do before choosing a plant.

51% of the plant you're buying is in the soil, and you can't see it unless you POP THE POT AND CHECK THE ROOTS. A plant can look decent up top and be in real trouble underneath. So the next time you're standing at a garden center bench or a big-box store display, here's my checklist.

1. Check the Roots

Hold the plant by the base of its stems, tip it sideways and gently slide the pot off. Most plants in a nursery pot will come right out with a little squeeze.

Healthy roots are usually firm, can come in a variety of colors depending of variety, and spread through the soil so the root ball holds its shape. Brown, black, mushy or sour-smelling roots are a red flag. If the soil falls away and there's barely anything there, the plant either was just potted or has lost its roots.

Remember this one: a wilted plant sitting in a well watered container is most likely fighting some kind of root disease. That plant isn't thirsty. It's drowning. Pass on it, no matter how good the price looks.

Extensive circling roots in house plants are usually not a supper concern of mine. Unless were talking tree starts for larger more woody trees where a circling root can girdle or strangle its own trunk just under the surface of the ground.  House plants which are much more vegetative and softer tissue usually don’t have any issues with this. But the amount of roots you see can defiantly give you some hints on age and conditions of the plant, including how often you may have to water it.

2. Does the Foliage Look Like It's Supposed To?

Every species has a look. We know generally what a healthy pothos, philodendron or snake plant should look like, so compare what's in front of you to that picture. If you're not sure, pull up a photo on your phone right there in the aisle.

Watch for stretched petioles (the little stems that connect each leaf to the main stem), pale stems and long gaps between leaves. That stretching is called etiolation, and it tells you two things. The plant may not have been grown in the right light, and it may have been sitting on a bench too long, crowded too close to its neighbors. A plant like that has spent its energy stretching for light and has went through a real stress event.

3. Look Closely for Pests

This is the step most people skip, and it's the one that can cost you your other plants at home. Turn the leaves over and look where the leaves meet the stems.

Here's what to watch for:

• Fine webbing or tiny speckles on the leaves, which can mean spider mites

• White cottony clumps, which usually means mealybugs

• Small bumps on stems that scrape off with a fingernail, which are scale insects

• Little flies hovering over the soil, which are fungus gnats

• Sticky, shiny spots on leaves or the shelf below

If you find any of these, put it back.

4. Does the Plant Look Stressed Overall?

Step back and look at the whole plant. Are there yellowing leaves, crispy brown edges, droopy growth or spots? Does it look full and balanced, or tired and thin? A leaf or two that's a little worn is normal for a plant that's been shipped and handled. A plant that looks beat up all over has had a rough road and may not be a great start due to the secondary infections that could be coming later on all the brused and cracked leaves.

We're looking for the plant that will give us the best experience possible. We're not just buying a plant. We're buying the best plant, because we have that choice. Take your time and pick up a few, and compare them side by side. Choose the fullest, most compact plant with healthy new growth coming on.

5. Pick the Right Plant for Your Space

Even the healthiest plant on the bench will struggle if it doesn't fit your space. Before you shop, think about your light. A bright, south-facing window is a very different home than a dim hallway or an office with fluorescent lights.

Pothos, ZZ plants and snake plants handle lower light and the occasional missed watering, so they're great picks for beginners and busy folks. Ficus Lyratas, crotons and succulents want plenty of bright light. Ferns and calatheas like more humidity than most homes have, especially in winter. If you have pets, check whether the plant is safe for cats and dogs before you bring it home.

Be honest about how much time you'll spend on it, too. The best plant for you is the one that matches the care you can actually give.

6. Get It Home Safely

Plants don't like extremes, so don't leave a new plant in a hot car in the summer or a cold one in the winter. Wrap it up if it's chilly out.

Once it's home, give it a few days to settle in before making any decisions of repotting. Check the soil with your finger before watering, since many plants arrive already moist. Most problems in the first month come from too much water, not too little.

Our Promise at Satin Pothos

HOW TO HIT THE EASY BUTTON ON CHOOSING WHICH ONE. When you order from Satin Pothos, we check all the health boxes for you. Every plant gets thorough check that includes roots along with a detailed check of the foliage and its overall health before it ever leaves our greenhouse. Whether it's a gift for someone you love or a treat for yourself, your plant “will” have the best start possible.