Monstera Deliciosa: The Truth About Growing A Thriving Plant

author: Tanner Mitchell (TannerThePlanter)

If there’s a houseplant equivalent of a celebrity, it’s probably Monstera Deliciosa. The large, glossy leaves and dramatic splits have made it a staple in homes, offices, coffee shops, and social media feeds around the world. Unfortunately, all that popularity has led many people to believe Monsteras are either incredibly easy or incredibly difficult to grow. The truth, as is often the case with houseplants, lies somewhere in the middle.

One of the biggest mistakes people make with Monstera care is focusing on what they want the plant to do instead of what the plant needs to do and placing where they want “tropical vibes” instead of where the plant needs to be for optimal growth. I blame the internet-usually Instagram, or Pinterest. We see a beautiful eight-foot specimen online and immediately imagine ours climbing to the ceiling and producing massive fenestrated leaves. Then we tuck it into a dim corner because that’s where it looks best. A few months later, the leaves are smaller, growth has slowed, and we're wondering what went wrong. Or echoing others complaining online with “Monstera just hate me!” Nature always wins and never lies. A Monstera can only grow where its needs are being met. And no, it doesn’t hate you, it just hates the conditions you’re putting it in. Stop blaming plant performance on the plant, it’s literally up to you to give it what it needs to perform properly, and when you do, they’ll perform every time. 

When it comes to lighting, Monsteras perform best in bright light. I’m not talking about what feels bright to you, or more importantly, what looks “bright” to you. I’m talking about enough light to fuel healthy growth and support those large leaves everyone dreams about. While a Monstera can tolerate lower light conditions, tolerating something and thriving in it are two very different things. Think of light as food. A Monstera kept in low light is like a person trying to run a marathon on a handful of crackers. It may survive for a while, but it won’t be operating at its full potential and it won’t grow those large, fenestrated leaves you’re dreaming of.

I recommend getting a light meter that reads foot candles to know absolutely what type of light your Monstera is getting. This takes all the guesswork out of the equation and it’s what horticulturists and botanists use to guarantee they’re growing their plants in the correct light. They’re easy to find online, and quite affordable. You want to make sure you place your Monstera in 1,000 foot candles of light for at least four hours per day. If you’re using a grow light for your Monstera, bump that up to at least 12 hours per day. Our eyes are not good judgements of “bright light” when it comes to plants because our eyes adjust to different lighting conditions so that it’s bright enough for us to depict images. Plants do not have this ability. Measure your light and watch your Monstera thrive!

Watering is where many plant owners get themselves into trouble. Monsteras prefer to dry slightly between waterings, but that doesn't mean waiting until the plant is desperately thirsty before giving it a drink. Nor does it mean watering on a fixed schedule every Sunday because someone on the internet told you to. The goal is to water based on the condition of the soil, not the calendar.  I see advice from “experts” online saying to wait until your Monstera wilts (leaves curl) before watering, and although that’s fine every once in a while, it shouldn’t be your norm. I recommend watering your Monstera when the soil (measuring from the top-down) is somewhere between 25-50% dry. Watering at that stage will avoid the plant wilting from underwatering, but allows the soil to dry enough to also avoid overwatering, AKA, root rot. Insert a chopstick into the soil about 25-50% down, and bring it out. If you feel moisture on the chopstick it’s not ready to be watered. Check back in a few more days. Only when you insert the chopstick 25-50% down and it comes out dry should you water. This is your opportunity to give the plant a full and thorough saturation. Your goal is to soak every spec of soil in the pot, either from top watering, or bottom…it doesn’t matter which. 

The health of a Monstera is largely determined by the health of its roots, which is why pot selection matters more than most people realize. I generally recommend choosing containers with drainage holes and avoiding the temptation to immediately move a newly purchased plant into a giant decorative pot. Bigger is not always better. Excess soil holds excess moisture, and excess moisture often leads to root problems. A slightly snug pot encourages a healthy root system and makes watering much more predictable. Terra-Cotta is the best pot material to use for Monstera, but anything will do so long as it has drainage. Keep them no more than 1-2 inches larger than the root ball diameter. 

Soil plays a similar role. The purpose of a potting mix is not to impress people on social media; it's to create a healthy balance of water and oxygen around the roots. Monsteras appreciate a chunky, well-draining mix that allows excess water to move through the container while still retaining enough moisture to support healthy growth. If the roots are constantly sitting in saturated soil, they can't access the oxygen they need. Healthy roots require both water and air, and successful soil mixes provide room for both. I like to use Aroid’s Dream Come True (from the tannertheplanter app) or, if you’d like to DIY mix it, equal parts general purpose soil, orchid bark, and chunky perlite. Our second generation grower and horticulturist, Austin Bryant, recently published an article explaining the importance of matching the right soil with your roots. You can read it here.

Fertilizing is often overlooked because the results aren't as immediate as watering. Nobody applies fertilizer on Friday and wakes up Saturday to a giant new leaf. But over time, fertilizer provides the nutrients a Monstera needs to maintain healthy growth, produce larger foliage, and recover from the normal stresses of life indoors. During active growth, a consistent fertilizing routine will almost always outperform sporadic feedings whenever you happen to remember. Plants are remarkably forgiving, but they do appreciate consistency. I recommend a general purpose fertilizer of any brand- just follow the directions for dosing on the packaging. I also recommend using mycorrhizae, the best brand is Big Foot. 

One of my favorite things about Monsteras is how clearly they communicate. New leaves, thicker stems, aerial roots, and increasing fenestrations are all signs that your plant is moving in the right direction. When growth slows, leaves shrink, or stop fenestrating, the plant is simply telling you that something in its environment needs attention. It's not being dramatic. It's not punishing you. It's just responding to its conditions. It’ll respond when you improve them. 

To climb, or not to climb? When you find a Monstera in nature, it’ll be climbing a tree. They’re what’s called an epiphyte, which basically means it’s a climber. It doesn’t hurt the tree or structure it’s growing on, it just uses it for support. Although giving your Monstera something to climb won’t improve its health, it is helpful in supporting the larger leaves you’re going to get now that you’re putting it in the right conditions. Popular structures are moss poles, coco-fiber poles, trellises, or simply a cedar fence picket. It doesn’t really matter what you use, just make sure the base is water resistant so it doesn’t rot (this part will be below soil level) and won’t leach anything bad in your soil. 

At the end of the day, growing a beautiful Monstera isn't about finding some secret fertilizer, magical soil blend, or expensive plant gadget. It's about understanding a few basic principles and applying them consistently. Give your Monstera enough light, water it thoughtfully, promote healthy roots, feed it regularly, and then give it something many plant owners struggle to provide: patience. The large leaves, dramatic fenestrations, and climbing vines people admire don't happen overnight. They happen one healthy leaf at a time.